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Hikkaduwa for a great surf holiday
Put your hand up if you want to live unemployed and surf every day for three months…
No, I’m not suggesting a summer on the dole in Torquay. I’m talking about Sri Lanka, the civil-war torn ‘tear-drop’ in the Indian Ocean.
After spending three months in the South-West coast surf town of Hikkaduwa, I can think of no better place to kick start your surfing career.
Here are three reasons why Sri Lanka is the best place for a surfing holiday…
1. Civil war
The ‘ethnic conflict’ that has been raging in Sri Lanka between the Tamil Tigers and the Sri Lankan Government for the past thirty years is downright depressing.
Roadside bombs are blowing up civilians all over the North and East, and since the government ended the ceasefire at the start of this year, all hopes of reaching a peaceful agreement have been shat on.
While politicians spend more and more money annihilating the Tigers, the people of Sri Lanka are in desperate need of tourism dollars. But tourist numbers are going down. Unsurprisingly too, with all the TERROR activity.
So far, however, the conflict has not reached the South-West corner, leaving Hikkaduwa beach as safe as any… which means goods news for us, my friends: lots of waves, not a lot of people.
2. Large beers for a dollar
Surfing is thirsty work. If you’ve had a crap surf, there’s nothing like throwing down your board and cracking open a huge bottle of beer. It’s nearly as good as catching the best wave of your life and cracking open a huge bottle of beer to celebrate. And nothing makes these moments sweeter than guilt-free, budget happy, Lion Lager for 120 rupees (about $1.20).

Not only is the beer cheap in Sri Lanka… everything is cheap! The most we paid for a nights accommodation was 750 rupees. The best feed of my life – a plate of crabs big enough to feed about ten fat men – was 500 rupees, but most meals are around 250, and you can grab a packet lunch (curry wrapped up in newspaper for on the go) for as little as 60.
If you’re lazy, or just want to remain in beach heaven, you don’t even have to leave the sand. Hikkaduwa has about fifty restaurant/bar/guest houses scattered along its shore. So just like me, you too can enjoy surfing, drinking, eating, hammock lazing bliss for around 20 bucks a day.
Sipping on a cocktail as the sun oozes into the ocean after a hard days surf – now that’s unemployment.
3. Variety of surf spots
There are two, sometimes three, good surf breaks at Hikkaduwa. The ‘Main Break’ is the biggest. The ‘Hansa Break’, is faster and may tend to close out more, but is more accessible than the death defying ‘Main Break’ on a huge day. And ‘Benny’s’ goes off when the swell is big enough.
Midigama, Mirissa and Welligama are among the many other surf spots further south, just a train ride away.
If you like surfing with turtles and tropical fish, there’s plenty of ‘em out there. The snorkeling and diving is great, too.
If you are not a surfer, all the best waves are in front of bars and restaurants. Do what my mate did and watch surfing all day… it’s better than TV, and you get to critique your mates as they come in. (Thanks, Mikey.)
So there you have it… fly to Colombo, grab a taxi down the coast and make your first stop Hikkaduwa. It has more of a ‘party’ scene than other coastal towns, so more chance to get to know people and find out the best surf spots.
If you’ve never surfed before, there are great places to learn. If you’re a seasoned surfer, you won’t be disappointed.
You don’t even need a board…hire one for 5 bucks a day, or score a cheap one from a traveler who’s moving on.
The surf starts pumping February to April, but November to January was beginner perfection.
I know I said Lion Lager was guilt free, but if you don’t feel guilty living the life amongst poverty and civil war, something is very wrong with you. But don’t feel bad – Sri Lankans want and need tourism.
So forget Torquay on the dole, save a couple of grand and head to Sri Lanka. Needless to say, no wetsuit required.
Reader Comments (1)
Can I still take up surfing at 53? You conjured up such enthusiasm I think I should take time out there,learn to surf from beach bums like you and learn some humility from the SriLankan people.
Keep the articles coming, you have an audience!